Peter Hutchinson, who grew up in the village, recently wrote an account of the Helmsley-York bus service which the Hutchinson brothers once operated. It is a nostalgic journey around this historic area and conjures up images of local places we havn't been able to visit during the pandemic but are looking forward to doing before long.
A nostalgic reminiscence inspired a return to Coxwoldshire to follow the route of a 1960s/1970s bus service. Passengers were collected from communities on the hillside villages along the Coxwold- Gilling Gap - a natural corridor between the Hambleton and Howardian Hills and adjacent to the North Yorkshire Moors National Park. This is an area of simple beauty with forested slopes, small streams and lush fields spreading out to the Vale of Pickering in the east and the Vale of York to the west. Tracking the undulating and winding roads in a Morris Minor was originally intended as the main highlight. However, the journey surpassed expectations as the blend of nature with historical and spiritual refuge along the way, emphasised the uniqueness of the area and accounted for the memories of the special people who lived here and especially their sense of service.
Helmsley market square was the starting point. Such a beautiful town, with bustling shops, cultural amenities and a Medieval castle symbolising strength and resilience. However, the real gem, in walking distance, is the ruins of a Cistercian Monastery - Rievaulx Abbey. Tall stone columns rise from the Rye valley, with trees that shroud the remains in a glorious protective canopy. You experience a great sense of awe and wonder and appreciate the foundations of early Christianity. This is a marvellous place of peace and inspiration.
The bus route climbed out of Helmsley to Sproxton, stopping adjacent to the tiny but long-standing St Chad’s Church. Moving on to Oswaldkirk – negotiating a steep incline, parallel to the road is the beautiful St Oswald’s Church. Saxon and Norman Christians, set the scene for worship with the simple architectural beauty of their churches. The old and new buildings of Ampleforth College – including the Abbey - make quite a contrast to the ancient churches and pretty village cottages. A very tall plain wooden cross – on its woodside location - draws you in. It was the vision of the 1960s Abbott, later Archbishop of Westminster – Cardinal Basil Hume. Originally in London for the Millennium, the cross is back home. It underlines the meaning of this seat of learning and vocation. The message is universal and eternal.
Travelling underneath a quaint footbridge, Ampleforth lies ahead and then it is a very twisty road to Wass before we encounter the second magnificent Cistercian ruin – Byland Abbey. Literally feet away stand the stone walls of a huge nave and the remnants of a rose window nestling in the clouds. Byland held an annual ecumenical service – such as one led by Leonard of Birmingham, formerly the legendary Bishop of Singapore.
Entering Coxwold, the road is forded like a vehicle cleansing bath to respect the beautiful stone cottages which ascend to the octagonal shaped tower of St Michael’s Church. How wonderful the story of Coxwoldshire is: Christian roots, the Norman Conquest and the harrying of the north, the economic development of sheep farming and mining alongside swashbuckling stories of northern invaders. Henry VIII, the Reformation and the Pilgrimage of Grace and later the Civil War left deep memories of struggle and hardship.
Departing Coxwold, the road crossed the Thirsk and Malton Branch Railway - a Nineteenth Century marvel. A neat signal box is a fitting roadside remnant. The tree-line of the old railway runs parallel to Elphin Beck. Heading towards the higher ground of Beacon Banks, there is a fantastic view opposite of the White Horse of Kilburn (1857) riding above the multi-coloured fertile fields – the colours changing perpetually according to seasonal light and weather.
A long stop at Husthwaite green (awaiting a taxi from Carlton Husthwaite) gave a chance to marvel at the classic Norman architecture of St Nicholas’s Church and adjacent the Tudor timbered Black Bull cottage. Returning to Husthwaite after living and working in Los Angeles, a former passenger remarked: “the bus pulling up at the green looked very sweet and comforting. I felt at home and in the right part of the world again.” In the 1960s, St Nicholas was led by the inspirational padre, the Reverend Harry Tyler. Leaving Coxwoldshire via Easingwold, the A19 gave rapid transport to Clifton, the traffic hustle and bustle, the Medieval Walls, Bootham Bar and the welcoming Minster – symbolising the majesty of God. Here literally and metaphorically is the heart of Yorkshire.
The people of Coxwoldshire believe in service to one another in close-knit communities. This journey was a transformational way of understanding where this came from. As the Collect for Peace reminds us: service is perfect freedom.
Peter Hutchinson 2021